Saturday, September 21, 2013

Leaving Lisboa

Although we had intentions to drive from our place in the Algrave back to Lison via the very scenic coastal highway, we realized that spending five hours in the car -- even with rest stops to snap photos, play on the beach, or grab a meal -- was exactly the opposite of what we were hoping to do on this vacation with Parker. Yes, Jeremy and I have routinely traveled 5 hours by car throughout Spain and France, but we chose to visit Portugal because we would be able to see many regions of the country with minimal amounts of drive time.

So after a quick "breakfast bandit" at the hotel, we wrestled Parker into his car seat, and hopped on the A1 back to Lisbon. Three hours later, we had arrived, dropped our luggage off at our last AirBnB apartment, and were ready to explore the city. Well, Parker and I were ready. Jeremy had to return the rental car. So Parker and I ventured out in the Baixa for a quick lunch. I stumbled upon a cute cafe and dined on gambas e frites. Shrimp with french fries. Unfortunately, the shrimp still looked like it did when alive and well in the ocean. I don't know, I am just such a whimp with eating animals when I can still see their faces. Hell, I'm barely a fan of eating animals that didn't roam free or eat organically while alive.

This time, though, my main "beef" with the heads and legs of my shrimp was the fact that I had to prepare them for eating with an infant on my lap. Probably the messiest meal I have had to date. But the white whine / butter drenched shrimp and french fries were delicious. Parker was a perfect date. He made friends with a Spanish couple sitting nearby, and I even got to practice my Spanish with them. I'm amazed that after all of this time -- jeez, 14 years now since my last class? -- I can still remember so much Spanish. Don't get me wrong, most of my speaking is total shit. But I was able to communicate that Parker is 10 months old, my husband is returning a rental car, we had been in Portugal for two weeks, and that we were very sad to leave. Also, that it was so kind of them to describe Parker as "muy lindo" which translates to very cute / beautiful.

We met up with Jeremy so that he could also eat lunch, and found a great wine and tapas bar. Jeremy and Parker feasted on their final octopus dish. I had a taste, but like eating ears, eating octopus is not for me. We had a great flight of wines to taste, though; and the waiter recommended a bottle for us to buy. A nice red to drink later that night once Parker fell asleep in celebration of our last night in Portugal. The bottle was a blend of Torrigas Nacional (Portugal's favorite grape) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Later that night, when we drank it, I have to admit, the Cabernet Sauvignon reminded us a bit of California, and we got a little excited to head home.

After our snacks, we boarded Tram 28, listed in the Lonely Planet as a "Must Do" in Lisbon. We rode up and down the hills of Lisbon and saw all of the neighborhoods. It was fun, and I snapped a couple great photos. But Jeremy and I apologize, Lisboa. We lived in San Francisco for too long to be over the top impressed with your city's hills or cable cars. First, the hills aren't even that steep. I don't think drivers need to curb their car's tires on any of them! And second, the cable car was more of a trolley. We're cable car people. It's just the way it is.

Tram Views...

...that Parker didn't see because he slept throughout the ride.

Narrow Lisbon Street

Pretty Yellow Building
After the tram ride, we headed to Bairro Alto, a neighborhood high in the hills of Lisbon. It was definitely our favorite part of town. Narrow cobblestone streets lined with cafes and bars. While Parker napped, we had a drink for happy hour. Jeremy opted for his last Super Bock of the trip -- at the stellar deal of only 1 Euro -- while I opted for a sangria. Parker woke up, and we ordered probably one of the best grilled cheeses -- 3 Euros -- that I've ever had. Parker loved it.

Bairro Alto Cafe
 Then, for our last dinner in Portugal, we went to a Spanish restaurant. I know, we should be ashamed of ourselves. But the Portuguese places have been so hit or miss, and this restaurant had tables in an alley with stairs that we knew Parker would have a LOVELY time crawling up and down. They even had pillows out on the steps for people to just sit in the middle of the alley (it's not gross if you don't think about it too much) and hang out. Other little kids were playing with the pillows when we arrived, so we thought it would be a good spot.

We were right. Jeremy moved on from Super Bock to Estrella Damm, the best cerveza in Barcelona. Parker stuck with his formula, and I of course, stuck with my red wine. We had a bunch of amazing tapas and chatted with the other diners while Parker made friends with a few small German girls. One of them lifted her dress at him, too. I guess that on top of walking, waving, riding a boat, and eating octopus, Parker also experienced his first flasher in Portugal.

Cheers!
And then the night was over. We headed back to our apartment in the Baixa district, rocked Parker to sleep with our typical "Ah ah" music, and enjoyed our last bottle of Portuguese wine, as well as the full moon.

The View from Our Apartment
We vowed to take another international journey next June after I graduate. Where to next? Greece? Croatia? Italy? Or should we give South America another whirl? Let's see what this next school year unfolds. But we will be back to see you again, Portugal. You have the most under-rated wine, and the friendliest people who just love babies. We are so grateful for your hospitality these past two weeks. Great memories, for sure. Abrigada and adeus!

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